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Crevasse Rescue

  • Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Avenue Portland, OR 97215 (map)

In this 3-hour clinic you will learn and practice several different types of systems for crevasse rescue. The primary focus will be on direct haul systems with two climbers (one climber rescuing the other) using a 3:1 and 6:1 mechanical advantage system.

Prerequisite: Basic knots and hitches including the figure eight (follow-through and on a bight), prusik, overhand-on-a-bight, double fisherman's bend, overhand flat bend (EDK), and clove-hitch.

Required Equipment:

  • 5 non-lockers

  • 4 lockers

  • 1 double shoulder length sling

  • Texas kicks prussics

  • 1 single shoulder length sling

Instructor: Jason Martin, AAI

Maximum Participants: 10

Tuition: $55

About Your Instructor

Jason Martin is the Executive Director of AAI, American Alpine Institute. In addition to his work at AAI, Jason is currently on the Board of Directors for the American Mountain Guides Association, serves on the Mt. Erie Climbing Committee for the city of Anacortes, participates in the annual Association for Outdoor Recreation and Education (AORE) conference and volunteers for the Bellingham Mountain Rescue Council. He serves as the technical director for the annual Red Rock Rendezvous climbing festival and previously served on the Board of Directors for the Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council. Jason co-authored 'Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide' and 'Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual," and authored 'Fun Climbs Red Rocks: Topropes and Moderates' and Best Climbs: Red Rocks.' AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide, Leave No Trace Master Educator, Rope Rescue Technician, and International Technical Rescue Association Level 3 Rope Instructor.

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